travel notes | prague at christmas.

I liked Prague. It is a beautiful city which is absolutely steeped in history which makes my inner history buff go nuts over all the kings and wars and stories. The architecture in Prague is also pretty damn stunning. I’ve never been anywhere with so many beautiful buildings. Literally, every street is rammed with them so you have to remember to look up!

All the good Instagramming opportunities but I was very preoccupied with the Christmas trees and weird and wonderful Czech food I managed to source at the markets whilst there. Suppose I’ll just have to go back again then.

We were there for three days between Christmas and NYE which meant that whilst Prague was looking wondrously festive, it was both cold and wet. No snow for us unfortunately!


We flew from Glasgow to Prague which was both handy and inexpensive. The flight takes around two hours and you can fly to Prague from most UK airports. During certain hours an Airport Express bus runs between the airport and the city bus station, it costs about 50 koruna or something and is the fastest route to the airport.

However due to our arrival time into Prague the AE bus wasn’t running for whatever reason so we instead have to catch two trams to make it to our Airbnb apartment near Old Town Square. The trams run all over Prague, they are super cheap and pretty simple to use. Prague is an absolutely huge city but if you are just concentrating on the centre you should be fine on foot. If you want to head further out you’ll definitely want to be using the trams.


This was my first time staying in an Airbnb and I would definitely do it again. We had one room in a shared apartment so we had to be considerate when using the shared kitchen and bathroom. I think I only once went to use the bathroom when another guest was in it so it definitely wasn’t inconvenient. The apartment was functional, clean and welcoming which is all I ask for.

Our host was super helpful (he gave us detailed information on how to get from the airport when the AE bus wasn’t running) and he provided a book in the apartment filled with his own personal tips and recommendations. It had lots of lovely suggestions of where to eat and what you can see and do in Prague.

There was also space at the back of the book for guests to add in their own reviews, advice and tips. It was useful to read about what other people had done, what they would recommend and what worked for them. It definitely convinced us to go on the free walking tour!


In the aforementioned guide book one thing that popped up frequently was a walking tour with Discover Prague Tours. It did rain all day Wednesday so we were a little soggy whilst strolling the streets of Prague but I would really recommend it, rain or shine. We had a lovely tour guide called David who seemed to know everything there was to know about this ciy.

On the tour we stopped by the Astronomical Clock, admired the architecture of Prague’s Old Town, learnt about Franz Kafka, explored the Jewish Quarter and saw Prague’s religious past.

In addition to a ‘free’ walking tour (a tip is often expected) we decided to spend our afternoon doing the Discover Prague Tour of the castle. It did cost around 250 koruna but it was a fascinating tour. The best bit for me was going inside the incredible gothic St Vitus cathedral which sits inside the castle walls and it took my breathe away.

The walk up to the castle is quite a hike but it does give you incredible views over the river and the Charles Bridge. We also stopped in the St Wenceslas vineyard which is the oldest vineyard in Prague and gives you amazing views out over the city. It got dark pretty early in the afternoon so it was lovely seeing the whole of Prague lit up when looking down from the castle.

The weather cleared up the next day (thank god) and we explored more of the Old Town with our suitcases in hand unfortunately as we had to check out by 11. We wandered around Old Town Square enjoying the Christmas markets which were in full swing.

We also visited Charles Bridge on our last day which was amazing. It is incredible to see up close and it was quite misty when we were there so it felt quite eerie as more statues kept emerging in the mist. The bridge was packed with people but it did thin out as you went further across. There are lots of stalls and musicians on the bridge so it was really nice just to amble along it.

The Astronomical Clock is also a pretty cool thing in Prague. It is the oldest in the world and on the hour it does a little show. It has been voted the second most overrated show in Europe but considering it was built in 1410 I think what it does do is pretty damn impressive!


We were trying to do our Prague visit very cheaply so we bought some croissants from the supermarket for breakfast. Supermarkets in Prague were super cheap and funnily, a bottle of beer is the same price as a croissant so I dunno, it’s up to you what to have for breakfast.

We were overly adventurous with the food whilst in Prague which is my one regret. We had amazing pizza at the same Italian twice as it was just SO GOOD, close to our Airbnb and the staff were incredibly friendly.

My problem is I don’t really like stews which is one of the Czech Republic’s signature dishes so I wasn’t all that sure I would like any Czech food. We did have goulash soup served in a giant hollowed piece of bread at a rather pricey place off Old Town Square but it didn’t blow me away all that much.

Another food thing to take advantage of if you visit during the Christmas period is the Christmas market. We had amazing hotdogs that cost hardly anything on our final day and some delicious pastries. There are loads of food vendors to explore and more  than one market too!

One Czech dish I shall be heading back to try however is  deep fried cheese served with chips or potatoes because that sounds right up my street.

Prague is definitely somewhere I need to revisit! I would like to go in the summer time and hopefully avoid the pissing rain. I can’t even stress how soaked we got! I want to explore more the Jewish Quarter and do the Bone Chapel tour on my next trip. Another place I’d like to see is Camp Terezin which was a WWII concentration camp mainly used as a stop-off before Auschwitz. There is just so much history to see and do in Prague – as a history student it would be rude not to go back!